The Scent of a Dream – Swapnagandha Resort in Chorla Ghats

Living a dream in Chorla Ghat

The Vazra Sakla roared down the idyllic slopes of Chorla Ghat. The sun kissed mountains stood stoic and stately indulging the twin waterfall their moment of mirth. We watched with gaping mouths as the white foamy water cascaded down into the jade green pool beneath, an offspring of its frothy downpour. It was the month of November. The monsoons had just wrapped up its work for the year leaving things to dry up after a wet spell. For the hills at Chorla Ghat, however, the honeymoon was still not over. They were alive with the verdant foliage cover. Though not as abundant, the greenery surrounding us was sufficiently lush. A persistent hum of activity kept the nights alive and the days musical. The busy pollinators twittered and buzzed around simply doing their work. Unknown to them they worked up an orchestra that was soulful and hearty in its own special way. The aura of the place was magical. Just like what dreams are made of. Only that we were living this dream in real and relishing every moment of it.

The Mhadei’s cradle

"River! that in silence windest

Through the meadows, bright and free,

Till at length thy rest thou findest

In the bosom of the sea!" 

The Mhadei river (also known as the Mahadeyi or Mandovi river) flowing through the lush green mountains of the western ghats is the lifeline for a rich biodiversity. The region is home to a wide species of mammals, avians and amphibians the critically endangered Long billed vulture being one. You can read more about this here.

The tributaries of the Mhadei crisscrossing this region are the source of the myriad waterfalls which cascade down the slopes like milky white ribbons. Unfortunately, the Mhadei region is known to the world not only for its rich biodiverse variety but also for its minerals. As a result, it has had to bear the brunt of mining activities which has left deep scars damaging its fragile ecosystem in irreversible ways.

This made two thinking minds come together to make a difference and give shape to two divine eco resorts in the midst of this wilderness – Swapnagandha and Widernest. You can read about their genesis here.

Eco living in Chorla Ghat for a greener tomorrow

Sandwiched between the idyllic vistas of the Anjunem Dam and the Vazra Sakla waterfalls, the Swapnagandha resort lies deep in the midlle of the Chirla Ghat forests that straddles the three states of Karnataka, Maharashtra and Goa. Technically, the resort falls within the jurisdiction of the state of Karnataka but can be accessed easily from Goa as well.

It has been built without hampering the forest cover and occupies just 3 acres of land in the total 700 acres. 15 acres are used for treks and the rest 650 are being preserved as a private sanctuary.

Every room is built with eco-sensitivity. Even the curtains and the wooden panels bear the unique patterns crafted by fungi and algae to show how close we are to this unique eco-system.

Swapnagandha and Wildernest, the two properties maintained by the team, is indeed a daunting yet a wonderful endeavour to preserve nature in the most unhindered and untouched way as possible. That is all that nature wants but we fail to understand. However, the team has finally cracked the plot and are doing an excellent job at it.

Visit their website to know more about the wonderful effort that is being put up to build a greener and better tomorrow.

A walk to remember

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul.” 

John Muir

As we sat cross-legged on the wooden patio in front of our rooms soaking in the peace surrounding us, the roar of Vazra Sakla gushing down the rocky slopes seemed innocuous and muted.

However, the ferocity of the falls can only be discerned when you come closer just like we did.

We were surprised to hear that we would not be going to the Vazra Sakal as it falls in Maharashtra and would take us a whole day to reach. It seemed so near yet was so far. Nevertheless, we would be trekking to another waterfall that is closer and is equally beautiful. We geared up to make every step count.

The path to the trek started from a quaint little temple that stood in the midst of the wilderness which formed part of the campus of the Wildernest Resort. We treaded through cobbled steps and stepped onto wilder terrain as the forest opened up before us. The road was a gradual slope and made us step carefully through twigs, moss and rocks.  On the way we met several interesting species of the local fauna, the Indian Paradise Flycatcher and the pill millipede being a few. The arthopod had a beautiful striped back and curled up into a tight ball when touched.  The Paradise flycatcher was an even more flighty one and hardly gave us a chance to photograph it as it flitted between trees and disappeared by favouring us with only a glimpse.

All through the trek we jumped over streams, slid down slippery boulders and hung on to mossy boughs to prevent ourselves slipping into the gushing waters of the mountain stream that flowed below. We climbed over the long snaking roots that had built steps in the ground for our convenience.

Puffing and panting we followed our guide a lithe young local girl who comfortably skipped over the terrain in nothing but a pair of slippers. We eyed her enviously as we gritted our teeth and pulled ourselves over another difficult boulder. Finally, with reddened faces and sore bottoms we reached the Chorla Ghat falls.

Gushing down from between a cleft in the hills, the voluptuous falls were indeed an amazing sight to behold. The white froth kissing the pink mountain flowers as it tumbled down into the deep green of the waters beneath creating a picturesque vista. We sat mesmerized soaking in the silence broken only by the sound of the flowing waters. Slipping dangerously, we managed to hold our balance on the moss laden stones as we soaked our feet in the cool waters. Drenching yourself in the chilling stream is a far better way to experience the place as we realised. It was indeed a huge stress reliever. We sat there breathing in the beauty of the place until our guide informed us it was time to leave.

The walk back was an easy one because now we knew the route well-enough to prepare ourselves. We knew the loose stones that we needed to avoid and the branches that would not hold our weight. The forest had now befriended us. We had entered as strangers but were leaving as friends. The best takeaway from every trek. The trolley car was yet another experience. Sliding down almost 130 metres through dense forest was indeed thrilling. The slow motion of the car gave us enough time to enjoy the surrounding vistas. The trees in myriad shades of green nodded and lurched forward to greet us and bid us goodbye. We smiled back breathing in the moist heady smell of the wilderness. It was a day well spent and one to cherish for a long time to come.

The swim to infinity

“Sometimes the thing to do is nothing.”

Winnie the Pooh – A.A.Milne

To cool off the exhilaration of the morning trek, we decided to opt for a quieter evening. A dip in the pool seemed a great idea. We headed for the Infinity pool.

Circular ripples anointed the moss green waters of the pool. During the day the mad frenzy of visiting guests and their kids created a furore. Their shrill cries of excitement echoed through the surrounding hills. But at dusk, as the guests retreated to their rooms, the waters settled down in the small semi-circular structure.

A gentle wind stirred the waters creating few more ripples. It gurgled and shivered in delight, shaking off the day’s tiredness. A yellowed leaf drifted by on its calm surface soaking in this peace.

With the mighty Sahyadris as a potent backdrop the Infinity pool is built to mesmerize, and it does play its role with elan.

We swam till its edge and stood dangling our arms over its smooth sand-coloured borders staring at the gorgeous peaks beyond, as the mighty Vazra Sakla falls roared down its steep slopes enhancing its beauty. The sight was exhilarating. We stood watching with awe at the beauty we beheld.

It was dusk. The velvet patches of the mountain face staring at us from atop were adorning a deeper shade as light began to fade. The soft billowing tufts of white clouds rose above the peaks as the sky prepared for the night. The trees turned into dark silhouettes as they hovered over us in thick dark clumps. Suddenly, a slight glimmer of lightning flashed through the sky like a gleaming knife followed by a low rumble of thunder as a precursor to an impending storm.

Unperturbed the crickets started their deep hum, and a bee buzzed its good night song near my ear. I noticed the others sitting by the poolside soaking their legs nodding their heads in deep conversation. We did have a lazy evening and we thoroughly enjoyed it.

I yawned and stretched out lazily on the deck chairs draining the last drops of the drink I was relishing. The day was coming to an end, but my heart still wished it to go on. I closed my eyes to imprint this moment in my memory and breathed deeply to let the peace and calm seep into my soul. A silent prayer escaped my lips. Me with mine and the togetherness we share with each other and with this idyllic surrounding is precious. May we learn to preserve it forever and ever.

Farewell

“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.”

Dr. Seuss

We bid goodbye to Chorla Ghat the next day, but the prayer never left my heart. Even now as I sit tapping on my keyboard, I can hear the myriad sounds of the place buzzing in my ear and imagine its beauty in my mind’s eye. That is what Chorla Ghat does to you. Silently yet surely it seeps into your soul and takes you in its grip till you feel surrounded by its aura and yearn to go back again and again.

Read my other travel stories for more such interesting places.

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